Head Gasket Repair :: Information and Resoruces

Has Your Head Gasket Really Gone Bad?

Author: Dirk Gibson

The last words any car owner wants to hear at a repair shop is they need a head gasket. It is not a cheap repair and often is a predictor of future problems down the road. The question in many cases, however, is whether the head gasket is actually the problem.

The head gasket performs a critical task in the modern internal combustion engine. It is the seal between the engine block and the engine head. More specifically, the head gasket is what creates the seal that closes off the cylinder combustion chambers. It keeps coolant and water out and oil in. It also creates a tight enough seal that the combustion chamber can be pressurized to the maximum efficiency to produce power when the gas and air mixture is fired by the spark plug. Basically, the head gasket is the most critical gasket in your car.

The head gasket is a funny thing when it comes to engines. It has to be put on just right. This would seem to suggest that it needs to be cranked down as hard as possible to perfect a seal. That really isn’t the case. Instead, every car comes with recommended specifications and a torque wrench needs to be used. Get it too loose and unintended substances can get into the cylinders. Get it to tight and you destroy the gasket or warp/fracture the engine head.

So, do you really have a head gasket problem? Well, you need to be vigilant. It is easy to tell if you have a problem in the head gasket AREA just by running the engine, but nobody can really tell if the head gasket needs replacing until the engine head is removed. The first step should be to check the bolts again and make sure they are torqued as specified. You would be surprised how many times this cures the problem.

Assuming retightening the head doesn’t do the trick, it is time to take a look at your exhaust. Most people assume black exhaust is a bad sign. It isn’t. It just means your engine is running rich. White or gray exhaust is really what you want to watch for. It usually means there is a more serious problem in the head gasket area. The problem can be a bad head gasket, but it is just as likely to mean a bad head. Modern engines used lighter materials for the engine head and many of them can suffer small cracks as the wear and tear of the engine builds up.

The bad new is there is really no way to know the specific problem until the head is yanked off the engine. At that point, you are already on your way to an expensive repair. Fixing the head gasket and head does not involve expensive parts, but it takes a lot of time. Mechanics charge by the hour, so you can expect the bill to be pretty high.

Problems around the head of the engine in your car do not necessarily mean that the top part of the engine is a mess. First check to make sure the bolts on the head are tightened to the specified figures. If that doesn’t work, take a look at your bank balance, take a deep breath and prepare yourself for expensive, bad news.

Article Source: http://dirkgibson.articlesbase.com/automotive-articles/has-your-head-gasket-really-gone-bad-1173032.html

About the Author

Dirk Gibson is with DCJAutoParts.com - find high performance aftermarket car parts that will make your engine per like kitten and perform like a Puma.

Late 90's Mercedes Head Gasket Replacement

Author: lowmileageengines

In many engines, a cooling system failure precedes head gasket repair. Due to thin-walled castings, once a modern motor heats to the point of head gasket failure, the best option is often to replace it entirely with a used one. For owners of the 104 inline six Mercedes engine this is a very real concern.

This particular Mercedes engine is an extension of a motor that Mercedes-Benz first introduced in the 1960s. Throughout this engine's history, it has earned a reputation for being near bulletproof. The 104 is, for the most part, no exception. However, despite its mechanical excellence, it does have an aggravating flaw. It is prone to developing oil leaks.

The common point of leakage is where the timing cover's resilient gasket butts into the head gasket. The resilient seal sits between the upper and the lower case. Had they built this Mercedes engine like most modern motors, with a cam belt, this area would not exist. Yet here it is and this is where the notorious gasket, which is U-shaped, spongy and approximately 4mm thick, resides.

In many cases, simply sealing the upper cam housing on the 104 Mercedes engine will cure the problem. If that did not work, then the mechanic replaces the head gasket and reseals the upper cover. However, imagine explaining this to the uninitiated customer. For this reason, many repair shops simply replace the head gasket straight away. This is understandable but also unfortunate since customers could often save substantial money taking that first step.

There is a pitfall with this repair on mid-90s versions of this Mercedes engine. Those engines have serious problems with degradation of wire harness insulation. If the harness is in this condition, there is no way to complete the repair without replacing that harness, which is very expensive. Repair shops familiar with this Mercedes engine know to look for it and will often sell you that job as part of the repair.

For a late 90s and later 104 Mercedes engine, there are no real pitfalls. The mechanically inclined Mercedes engine owner can accomplish this repair. The first step will be disassembly. First, the mechanic removes the wire harness, and then he removes the head, intake and exhaust in a single unit. Then the process of removing the upper timing cover is simple.

At this point, the mechanic should familiarize themselves with the timing marks and orientation. Reseating all of this is paint by numbers except for the cam timer. The cam timer is where you will pay particular attention since a mistake will not always be obvious. This Mercedes engine can run fairly well with the cam timer set incorrectly.

In a repair shop, they will hoist the engine, which can be a bit of a challenge even with the proper equipment. It is possible to complete the repair without hoisting the engine. However, some tight fits can prove quite challenging with this Mercedes engine still in place.

The most difficult aspect of the job at this point is proper handling of the chain tensioner. The next step, sealing the front cover of the Mercedes engine, which caused the problem to start with, is rather simple. From here, the remaining job is the proverbial piece of cake.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/automotive-articles/late-90s-mercedes-head-gasket-replacement-2453723.html

About the Author

Take the car for a 5-mile drive. If the Check Engine light comes on, check the vacuum lines to the switchover valve. Getting them backwards is a common mistake with his Mercedes replacement engine. Once it has cleared the short run, take it on an extended test drive and do the scan verification to make sure all codes have cleared.

Spiral Wound Gaskets for Reducing Cost and Work Risk

Author: JohnnyRose

Spiral wound gaskets provide the much required cushioning where two metallic objects are in constant contact with each other. Without the presence of a gasket, they are at risk of eroding each other in the working process. This may have serious ramifications, your machinery may fail to offer the required productivity, or you may have to replace these parts frequently. In both cases, you have to incur heavy losses. Hence, spiral wound gaskets offer much required solution in various manufacturing processes.

Spiral Wound Gasket Varieties

Raw materials used:

Different industries use spiral wound gaskets made from a varied range of materials to suit their individual requirements. Among the most widely used raw materials are: metal, plastic, silicon, rubber, asbestos and paper. While deciding on the raw material, various working conditions are taken into account like temperature, impact of chemicals, place of use etc. Apart from these factors, before deciding on any gasket variety, it is recommended that you use only those that fit in to your requirement appropriately i.e. fit into the required space tightly. The durability of spiral wound gasket mainly depends on the mechanical characteristics of the material used; hence it is one factor which should be considered carefully. Of all the metal gaskets, the carbon rich stainless steel is the most popular, for their reliability and durability in various work conditions.

Varieties in shapes:

Spiral wound gaskets are available in many different varieties depending on their respective use. There are round, rectangular, oval, diamond and pear shaped. Of these, the round or circular shaped is most widely used. They are more reliable than other shapes.

Dimensional varieties:

Most of the manufacturers of spiral wound gaskets can produce customized varieties, as per customer demands apart from those size & shape as per prevailing international standards. The same also applies to other fasteners like b7 studs, threaded rod. You can also choose the materials thickness as per your requirements. Most of the users prefer to insert a steel ring inside a spiral wound gasket to increase its efficiency. This is also helps to protect the windings (particularly the filler), from contamination, and other hazards.

Though critics of spiral wound gaskets are of the opinion that these are very expensive, they are worth the price, when you consider their beneficial factors. They go a long way in lowering risks and reducing costs. Spiral wound gaskets are the most durable sealing options in various vital industry sectors. Hence, they are used in refineries, petrochemical, chemical, steam lines and process industries, where they have many advantages over conventional gaskets.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/industrial-articles/spiral-wound-gaskets-for-reducing-cost-and-work-risk-4710602.html

About the Author

AFT offers a huge selection of fasteners, including Socket Head Cap Screw, Hex Cap Screws, Custom Springs, Square Head screws, Tap Bolts, Plastic Fasteners, Stainless Steel Socket Head Cap Screws, Spiral Wound Gaskets, Hex Bolts. We supply high-quality standard, non-standard, and specialty fasteners and hardware products.

Sodium silicate - Nose Rinsing Device - Yoga Netipot

Author: yoyo

Properties

Sodium silicate is a white powder that is readily soluble in water, producing an alkaline solution. It is one of a number of related compounds which include sodium orthosilicate, Na4SiO4; sodium pyrosilicate, Na6Si2O7, and others. All are glassy, colourless and dissolve in water.

Sodium silicate is stable in neutral and alkaline solutions. In acidic solutions, the silicate ion reacts with hydrogen ions to form silicic acid, which when heated and roasted forms silica gel, a hard, glassy substance.

CAS registry number and EINECS number

Each and every substance has its own unique CAS registry number and EINECS number. The CAS No. and EINECS No. of Sodium silicate and other related substances are:

Substance Name

CAS#

EC#(EINECS No.)

sodium silicate

15859-24-2

239-981-7

disodium metasilicate

6834-92-0

229-912-9

Silicic acid, sodium salt

1344-09-8

215-687-4

Uses

Metal repair

Sodium silicate is used, along with magnesium silicate, in muffler repair and fitting paste. When dissolved in water, both sodium silicate, and magnesium silicate form a thick paste that is easy to apply. When the exhaust system of an internal combustion engine heats up to its operating temperature, the heat drives out all of the excess water from the paste. The silicate compounds that are left over have glass-like properties, making a somewhat permanent, brittle repair.

Automotive repair

Sodium silicate can be used to seal leaks at the head gasket. A common use is when an alloy cylinder head engine is left sitting for extended periods or the coolant is not changed at proper intervals, electrolysis can "eat out" sections of the head causing the gasket to fail.

Rather than remove the cylinder head, "liquid glass" is poured into the radiator and allowed to circulate. The waterglass is injected via the radiator water into the hotspot at the engine. This technique works because at 210220 F the sodium silicate loses water molecules to form a very powerful sealant that will not re-melt below 1500 F.

A sodium silicate repair of a leaking head gasket can hold for up to two years and even longer in some cases. The effect will be almost instant, and steam from the radiator water will stop coming out the exhaust within minutes of application. This repair only works with water-to-cylinder or water-to-air applications and where the sodium silicate reaches the "conversion" temperature of 210220 F.

Car engine disablement

Sodium silicate solution is used to inexpensively, quickly, and permanently disable automobile engines. Running an engine with two quarts of a sodium silicate solution instead of motor oil causes the solution to precipitate, catastrophically damaging the engine's bearings and pistons within a few minutes. In the United States this procedure is required by the Car Allowance Rebate System (CARS) program.

Aquaculture

Sodium silicate gel is also used as a substrate algal growth in aquaculture hatcheries.

Food preservation

Sodium silicate was also used as an egg preservation agent in the early 20th Century with large success. When fresh eggs are immersed in it, bacteria which cause the eggs to spoil are kept out and water is kept in. Eggs can be kept fresh using this method for up to nine months. When boiling eggs preserved this way, it is well advised to pin-prick the egg to allow steam to escape because the shell is no longer porous.

An article in The Mother Earth News offers test results for this and other methods of preservation. LINK

Timber treatment

The use of sodium silicate as a timber treatment for pressure-treated wood began some time in the 19th century. It is suggested that that more costly "silicate of potash" (potassium silicate) may also be used, in "Handy Farm Devices and How to Make Them" by Rolfe Cobleigh, published in 1910. Since 1998 scientists have researched methods for rendering sodium silicate insoluble once the lumber has been treated with it. With or without the additional process, treating wood with sodium silicate preserves wood from insects and possesses some flame-retardant properties.

Passive fire protection (PFP)

Expantrol proprietary sodium silicate suspended in 1/4" thick layer of red rubber, type 3M FS195, inserted into a metal pipe, then heated, to demonstrate hard char intumescence, strong enough to shut a melting plastic pipe

Palusol based intumescent plastic pipe device used for commercial firestopping.

Sodium silicates are inherently intumescent. They come in prill (solid beads) form, as well as the liquid, water glass. The solid sheet form (Palusol) must be waterproofed to ensure longterm passive fire protection.

Standard, solid, bead form sodium silicates have been used as aggregate within silicone rubber to manufacture plastic pipe firestop devices. The silicone rubber was insufficient waterproofing to preserve the intumescing function and the products had to be recalled, which is problematic for firestops that are concealed behind drywall in buildings.

Pastes for caulking purposes are similarly unstable. This too has resulted in recalls and even litigation. Only 3M's "Expantrol" version, which has an external heat treatment that helps to seal the outer surface, as part of its process standard, has achieved sufficient longevity to qualify for DIBt approvals in the US for use in firestopping.

Not unlike other intumescents, sodium silicate, both in bead form and in liquid form are inherently endothermic, due to liquid water in the water glass and hydrates in the prill form. The absence in the US of mandatory aging tests, whereby PFP systems are made to undergo system performance tests after the aging and humidity exposures, are at the root of the continued availability, in North America, of PFP products that can become inoperable within weeks of installation. Indiscriminate use of sodium silicates without proper waterproofing measures are contributors to the problems and risk. When sodium silicates are adequately protected, they function extremely well and reliably for long. Evidence of this can be seen in the many DIBt approvals for plastic pipe firestop devices using Palusol, which use waterproofed sodium silicate sheets.

Refractory use

Water glass is a useful binder of solids, such as vermiculite and perlite. When blended with the aforementioned lightweight aggregates, water glass can be used to make hard, high-temperature insulation boards used for refractories, passive fire protection and high temperature insulations, such as moulded pipe insulation applications. When mixed with finely divided mineral powders, such as vermiculite dust (which is common scrap from the exfoliation process), one can produce high temperature adhesives. The intumescence disappears in the presence of finely divided mineral dust, whereby the waterglass becomes a mere matrix. Waterglass is inexpensive and abundantly available, which makes its use popular in many refractory applications.

Water treatment

Water glass is used as a water treatment in waste water treatment plants. Waterglass will bind to heavier molecules and drag them out of the water.[citation needed]

Magic crystals

Water glass was used in the magic crystal garden toys from the 1980s. When waterglass was combined with a selection of different metals in solution, the waterglass would cause the metals to precipitate. Each metal would precipitate separately causing a different color stalagmite.

An early mention of crystals of metallic salts forming a "chemical garden" in sodium silicate is found in the 1946 Modern Mechanix magazine . This results in very colorful gardensuch more than shown in the illustrations.

In Europe the ingredients for such chemical gardens were available already around the early 1930s. Interestingly enough, one could buy these at better flower shops in Budapest, Hungary.[citation needed]

Fixing Plumbing Problem - Dripping Faucet

Author: heidicatherine

What happens when there is a problem of dripping faucet or leaky faucet? What do you do to fix it? This article is on how you can replace the the gasket of a faucet. The wearing out of gasket is the cause to a leaky and dripping faucet. These instructions are in accordance to the rules of replacing a gasket by Atlanta Plumber.

Dripping faucets are annoying; they diverts your attention when you are doing something important; at night it disturbs your sleep and most importantly, it increases your water bill. You can either get help from experts by availing the necessary plumbing service. Dripping faucets are easy to fix and this article includes the easy steps to do it yourself.

Fixing dripping faucet by replacing the gasket

A worn gasket is the main cause to a dripping faucet. This can be fixed by replacing the gasket. Replacing the gasket is rather tricky but following the steps provided here will make your task easier. As mentioned before, this task can easily be done without the help of Atlanta plumbing contractors.

Before you begin your work, make sure you have the necessary tools. The tools you will need are:

Crescent wrench pliers
Cleaning brush and
Gasket of the right size

Steps to replacing the Gasket

Step 1

Turn off the water supply to the sink or the faucet which is damaged. Makes sure that your family members know that you are fixing the faucet and they should not use the particular faucet or sink. Usually the water supply valve in under the sink. Now, with the help of the crescent wrench, loosen the head of the faucet and remove.

Step 2

After removing the head of the faucet, look for the worn gasket which looks like a flattened small rubber ring in either part of the faucet. Remove the flattened gasket.

Step 3

Now, clean the faucet area where the head is connected with the help of the cleaning brush. Make sure that the part is free from grit and grime. Do the same to the head of the faucet. Doing this ensure that there is no spaces between the gasket and the faucet part which may cause future leakage.

Step 4

Make sure you have the right size of gasket. To make sure, you can take the old gasket to a nearby hardware store and ask for the same size of gasket. Once you have got the right gasket, replace it by placing the gasket to the head of the faucet, flat against the later.

Step 5

Taking extra care that the gasket doesn't slip from its position and gets caught/wedged in the grooves, hand-screw back the faucet head to its position. Now, with the help of the crescent wrench tighten the head to it's place.

Step 6

Once the faucet head is in place, test the faucet by turning on the water supply for half a minute and then off. Wipe off any residual water on the head of the faucet and observe for a minute. If there is a drip, you need to revise your work if not, you have succeeded.

Fixing dripping faucet therefore doesn't need the help of Atlanta plumbers if you follow the above provided steps.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/bath-showers-articles/fixing-plumbing-problem-dripping-faucet-4281823.html

About the Author

heidi catherine is an English graduate having good experience in content writing.She has written many articles and news on many domains and currently she is writing mainly for atlantaplumberco , plumber problems, and plumbing maintenance

Catalytic convertor failure

Author: keysha

The catalytic converter is part of the exhaust system (exhaust), which generally has the shape of the drum and is somewhere between engine and muffler.

It transforms toxic gases resulting from engine operation in less toxic gases. How? Inside the catalytic converter is a passage generally honeycomb, coated with a chemical substance (catalyst) which reacts with polluting gases, making them less polluting gases. The catalytic convertors can be from ceramic or metal.

Types of catalytic converters

OxidationCatalyst - convert carbon monoxide and unburned gas into carbon dioxide and water.

CatalystReduction - turn nitrogen oxide into nitrogen and oxygen. Nitric oxide is one of the main elements that constitute the smoke that we see the output.

In general, the catalyst is made to withstand as much as the car lives.

Causesthat leadto failure ofthe catalytic converter:

Ignition failures (bad spark plugs and / or card that downloads);
Failures due to compression (leaking valve or cylinder head gasket);
Internal looses for cooling agent (cracks in the cylinder head or cylinder head gasket);
Burning oil (wear valve guides, gaskets, piston rings, cylinder);
Contaminants in the gas (lead);
Rust or mechanical damage.

When the things become too hot

The converter supports a fairly large amount of heat. High levels of pollutants from the engine output make the function temperature of the converter to go crazy. This can damage the convertor. If the converter heats up (over 2000 degrees F or 1100 * C), it may melt the housing comb. The result is a complete or partial blockage that leads to high pressure peaks at exhaust and a drastic fall in engine performance and fuel economy.

If the converter is completely blocked, it causes the engine block. The fundamental causes here include things like bad spark plugs, spark plug chips defective, used engine valves or wear on cylinder head gasket. Any of these can cause a large amount of unburned fuel at the output. When hydrocarbons strike converter, they are catching fire and transmit to the converter avalanche temperatures. The restriction checks are simple and do not require a special equipment.

In conclusion, it is very important that the catalytic convertor does not failure so the performance of the engine will rise up. As much time as the catalytic converter does its job effectively, the vehicle will maintain low levels of tailpipe pollutants and it will pass the gas test.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/trucks-articles/catalytic-convertor-failure-4804248.html

About the Author

Converter catalytic blocked?It is very important that the catalytic convertor does not failure so the performance of the engine will rise up.

Dangerous Car Trouble Warning Signs

Author: Paul Charles Sayer

Keeping your vehicle in tiptop condition through regular visits to an auto mechanic is the best thing you can do to keep your car safe and to maintain the value of your car. Many of us are happy to leave the safety of our vehicle in the hands of a professional but sometimes we need to add to our skill base and learn to read the signs that our vehicle gives us from time to time so we can avoid expensive repairs.

Sometimes it is simply not enough to only know how to fill her up and start the car! It doesn't take much to put in a bit of effort and learn more about your vehicle so that you can look after it even more and avoid having to visit the service station more often than you have to.

Here are some warning signs that your vehicle may give you which mean that you should plan a visit to the service station sooner rather than later.

Carbon monoxide emissions are generally hard to detect because this gas is odourless. If you find yourself becoming drowsy or nauseous or even have a ringing in your ears, this could be a sign that there is a carbon monoxide leakage within your vehicle and you should stop immediately.
When you apply your brakes and your vehicle veers to the left or to the right, it means that your brakes need to be adjusted as soon as possible.
If the oil warning light comes on intermittently or continuously whilst driving, this is a dangerous sign that your vehicle is low on oil and needs to be topped up or serviced urgently.
If your brake pedal feels spongy when you apply the brakes or the brake pedal travels almost entirely to the floor, your brakes need to be attended to urgently.
When you hear squealing noise as you apply the brakes this may mean there is water on the brake pads or the brake pads are dangerously low. In either case you should have a brake expert attend to this as soon as possible.
If you hear a clunking or clattering noise coming from your engine you should stop driving immediately as this could be a sign that you have blown the head gasket. Stop and have your car towed to a service station as soon as possible.
Sometimes you might find your car difficult to start and there may even be a clicking sound as you turn the key. This could mean that your alternator is faulty or that your battery is low on power. Either way you should visit the service station as soon as possible or call your motor vehicle association for roadside assistance.

Although these tips are not meant to be exhaustive in any way, they can give you a heads up that your vehicle needs specialist attention. This may mean a quick visit to your mechanic to put things right.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/cars-articles/dangerous-car-trouble-warning-signs-3337935.html

About the Author

Lube Mobile are "The Mobile Mechanics" equipped and trained to perform any Car Repair or Car Service. We have a mechanic come to you at a time and a place convenient - 6 days a week. Convenience, Quality and Service are guaranteed. For more information or to make a booking, visit Car Service

Different Types of Gaskets for Engines

Author: Zeeshan Daniel

There are various types of gaskets available to fulfill any industrial, mechanical or automotive sealing needs. These are gaskets available in different sizes, quality and types. A felpro head gasket is different than other types; it is located between engine blog and cylinder head for inner combustion engine. It is used to ensure maximum compression and seals the cylinder to avoid leakage of any oil or coolant.

Fel pro head gasket is mostly used for the same purpose to ensure best performance and good quality seals. There are different types of head gasket types; these are mainly consisting of three layers of steel. The layers of steel ensure the strength of the product.

The two contact faces are generally coated with rubber like substances, for example, Viton that is compatible with the cylinder block and the cylinder head.

Another type is made of solid copper; these are extremely durable and are used in heavy industry or where maximum compression is needed. It is made from solid sheet of copper to ensure the durability. Another type is composite; these are made from asbestos or graphite and have a high tendency to blowouts.

However, due to asbestos these are rare because asbestos have serious health concerns and are not recommended to be used. Sometimes there are problems faced by different types of gaskets. Generally, over compression in the cylinder may cause a leak to form and then the gasket have to be replaced. The best choice would be to use the gasket set. The utilization of aluminum instead of iron cylinder heads make this issue more prominent, but aluminum heads are much better due to higher thermal expansion, which puts more pressure and stress on the gasket to last long.

This problem is now almost solved by the engine makers adding Teflon to the surface of the head gasket. In some cases, the gasket fails to perform, and the problem arises from compression loss. The gases are being exposed to the cooling system, and it can cause the engine to overheat. This the most common reason for overheating of automobile or any other engine motors. This problem can be identified easily by looking into the engine oil. Most of the times, if there is any leakage the coolant will mix up with oil or other parts. If the coolant enters into the cylinders, it can cause steam that can damage the exhaust.

However, it can be fixed by using the best high quality gasket that can tolerate compression and temperature. When the gasket head is damaged it can cause leaks between cylinders need to use the pressure gauge or leak down test to show the compression loss. It will help to save the engine and performance, you can replace the heads. If you are using the engine with blown head gasket, then it causes heavy damage from overheating and loss of oil from the engine. Sometimes, there is burning oil with blue exhaust smoke. However, you can fix this problem by replacing your kit.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/industrial-articles/different-types-of-gaskets-for-engines-4829322.html

About the Author

You can find different types of gaskets on gasket supplier website.

Used Cars Repair

Author: Agnes Celina

The need for repairing is quite obvious after buying a used car. There may be problems with certain parts of car like body, brakes, communication, cooling, drive train, electrical, engine, exhaust, fuel, oil and lubrication, suspension and last but not the least tires and wheels. Here we will discuss some of the more common problems which almost every purchaser experiences and also how to take preventive measures against these difficulties. We will consider the above mentioned parts one by one. The common problems with the body are Rusting, Painting and accidents. Rusting is the most common problem with the body of an automobile which feeds upon the whole stuff and renders it useless. New cars have a good rust proof system, unlike the older ones. For preventing rust, all the drain holes around the trunk and hood must be made clear so that water can exit through safer channels and can't rust away your car. Accidents may cause irreparable loss but cheap imported parts should not be used after this loss. To prevent paint disturbances, carsmust be parked under shade as ultra violet rays are the paint worst enemies. Also don't forget to have a good layer of wax on the body of car.

Braking system does a lot of work and the brake pads do get considerable insult if not checked after specific term usually of 6 months. Problems include squeaking, grinding or increased stopping distance. Rotors warp due to overheating or incorrect tightening of wheel. It gives feeling of pulsation when brakes are applied .To prevent these very obvious problems, one should avoid Riding the brakes and so their overheating. It would be better to slow down with moderate pressure and allowing brakes to cool down. The braking system and wheel should be kept cleaned using a good wheel cleaner as the clean system works better. Keeping in contact with auto mechanic of your car is a critical thing so that the efficiency of car is ensured.
Cooling system is another major problem causing part. The common problems with this system are broken hoses, broken fan belts, faulty radiator cap, water pump failure and head gasket i.e. the white smoke flowing out of the exhaust. As preventive measures, one should keep flushing and changing of the coolant after the specified time recommended by the authorities. Replacement of the deteriorated rubber seal of radiator cap is essential. Checking the freezing point of the coolant is also quite helpful. Remember not to overheat your car systems.

The electrical problems are general and mostly are related with battery. In fact battery is the first part to wear out. It is advisable to replace the battery after 4 years to avoid all troublesome situations. The cleansing process should be done at least once a year. A handy terminal cleaner can work for this wonderfully. Check fluid levels in each cell and use only distilled water for this. Regular oil changing's and good maintenance habits would prevent car's engine it worn out. One must give a chance to engine to warm up before driving, so the oil can spread to all parts before a lot of load is experienced by engine. Similarly try to give the engine one or two minutes before turning it off so that it can get cold. The problem with the exhaust is Corrosion and among the most common problems faced by Fuel is clogged fuel filter. Others include fuel pump failing and the dirty injectors. Regular use of a in-tank cleaner may solve this problem.

As far as the problem with tires and wheels is concerned here could be flat tire, worn tires and bent rim. Flat tire is due mostly to the nails, debris etc. Worn tire prevention can be done by replacing the worn out tire at a proper time as like the other things, tires are not an exception for the wear out rule of nature.
In the last, it will definitely bring you the benefits, if you pay heed to the precautions described above.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/business-ideas-articles/used-cars-repair-4785853.html

About the Author

Visit Vancouver used car sales, Used Cars Richmond

4 causes of 2jz-gte engine overheating, and some coolant boiling issues

Author: Thinkerati

2jz-gte engine overheats - Disaster? Maybe...

The most common causes for 2jz-gte engine to overheat can be traced to these:

More...

Wrong ignition timing, which I probably wouldn't explain more here as I don't have (nor do I want to) experience with.
Insufficient radiator airflow - check if your standard viscous fan is operating properly. If you are using aftermarket fan, make sure you use a ducted/shrouded double fan (MVP Motorsports has a few good ones). Cheap single electric fan, or dual fan that are not shrouded are mostly incapable of cooling the mighty 2JZ, especially if you have an FMIC. The standard fan flows approx. 3300 CFM (cubic feet per minute) while the flimsy Supercheap Auto fan may only flow about 1200 CFM if you're lucky.
Standard cooling fan shrouds taken off. Taking off these fan shroud can cause cooling air to be blown improperly to the sides instead of being channeled through the radiator as it should.
Coolant and insufficient coolant problem. More on these below.

Supra 2JZ-GTE engine coolant problems that lead to engine overheating are most likely from the followings:

Insufficient engine coolant. Make sure to keep your coolant in the overflow bottle/tank properly topped up to the appropriate level.
Faulty radiator cap. This should be the next thing you look at, especially since radiator cap is very cheap (only $5 - $20). I wouldn't recommend upgrading it to higher pressure, as sometimes the water pump, gasket, or pipe joints may not be able to cope with the increased working pressure. But if your radiator cap is old, replace it with a new one to see if it solves the problem. If the radiator cap cannot handle the pressure within the cooling system, the water would boil at a much lower temperature, leading to boiling water spitting out of your radiator overflow bottle.
Coolant cavitation within the engine. Sometimes (especially to improper fill up after coolant flush) there may be air trapped within the engine, which expands at a rate higher than coolant should when the engine heats up. This pushes the coolant out and end up having them spitting over the radiator overflow bottle as if they are boiling. Some supra owners get through by carefully keeping the coolant topped up everytime it spits, and over several days the problem simply disappeared. But it is advisable to consult proper mechanics who may de-air the engine in a more efficient way before it leads to more damage (water pump running air, etc).
Coolant system leak. Leaks within the coolant system (pipe leak, hose leak, water pump gasket leak) may introduce air into the system as the water cools down after engine usage. As the system cools down, the water contracts/shrinks and air gets sucked in, becoming cavitation as above.
Blown Head Gasket (BHG). This is a massive one, as the repair would involve taking the turbo assembly off, undoing the cabling and plugs on top of the engine, undoing the cam cover and cams, taking the head off, and machining the head to ensure flat seating after repair. It amounts to thousands of dollars (my mechanic did mine for around $3k - $4k) as it would take them lots of machining and in excess of 20 man hours. If you do your own car, be glad because the parts are not too expensive (only $300-$500 for head gasket kit) and it would be a great chance to recondition your engine.

BHG is rare on 2JZ-GTE running stock boost, unless something is wrong or your engine is old. But it does happen from time to time.

When the head gasket is blown, during the ignition sequence some of the hot burning air can get pushed into the cooling system through the leak on the head gasket, leading to cavitation as well as a lot of heating into the coolant.

Symptoms of Supra 2JZ-GTE blown head gasket include (but each may or may not appear, independently of the others):

white/milky residue in the oil, can be checked via the oil dipstick. This indicates water being pushed into the oil chambers/passages.
oily residue in the coolant, can be checked via the radiator cap. This indicates oil being pushed into the coolant passages.
white powdery residue on the spark plugs. This indicates water seeping into the combustion chambers.
Some equipped mechanics can do a sniffer-test with certain equipment, to see if any combustion gas exists in the coolant. This is normally done on the radiator cap outlet.
Pressure testing the coolant system
Pressure testing the combustion chambers

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/cars-articles/4-causes-of-2jzgte-engine-overheating-and-some-coolant-boiling-issues-879026.html

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